Niagara-on-the-Lake: One Gluttonous Affair

The thing I love most about Thanksgiving are the endless, mouthwatering plates of food. I had quite the non-traditional Thanksgiving this year and took a three-day trip up to Niagara, Ontario. Every year, millions of tourists travel to Buffalo and Niagara to admire their world-renowned waterfalls, but lesser known is the beautiful town of Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL), a mere 20 minute drive from Niagara Falls. There's something magical about this place. The crisp air, historic buildings, and plentiful vineyards that line this quaint little town evoke a sense of longing for some sort of lost past. Wine and vineyards aside, NOTL is also a great breeding ground for gourmet food. We ate at restaurants that were absolutely fabulous (quality in line with top NYC places), bought delectable treats at downtown gourmet shops, and drank/ate our way through NOTL for Taste the Season, a heavenly-sent event for foodies alike. Below I've included some highlights of my trip!

On NOTL Ice Wine...
Niagara-on-the-Lake is probably best known for its ice wine, a prestigious dessert wine made from grapes that are picked while still frozen on the vine. The water freezes, but the sugar does not, which results in a highly concentrated and sweet tasting wine. Ice wine was first introduced in Germany in the 1700s, and the founders of Inniskillin Winery introduced the first batch to Niagara in 1984. Today, most of the wineries in NOTL produce icewine, and during our winery hopping, we sampled quite a few different bottles. Though each had its distinct taste, they all exhibited the same sweet aroma that is characteristic of ice wine.


2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Ice Wine from Konzelmann Estate Winery

View of Inniskillin Winery

On Taste the Season...
Each November, 21 wineries of NOTL get together and host a gourmet event where each prepares a specific food and wine pairing, and attendees can buy a "passport" and make their way through the wineries. Thanks to a wonderful grape guy who offered a great review on his experience, we planned strategically and prioritized the best pairings to maximize our success. It was pretty insane (and required my partner in crime's excellent driving skills), but we managed to hit 18 out of 21 wineries in only one day! After much debate and reflection on the pairings, we decided that the top three contenders were Coyote's Run, Cattail Creek, and Konzelmann.

Winner: Cattail Creek Estate Winery
2008 Gamay Noir paired with Gamay-Infused Sausages topped with Sauteed Wild Mushrooms served on a Grape Skin Baguette

The gamay-infused sausage was unbelievably delicious - a spicy, yet earthy taste from the wild mushrooms. The hot sausage slice was served on a crispy grape skin baguette, and the Gamay Noir really brought out the flavor in the meat and mushrooms. We loved the consistent gamay theme throughout the dish, from the sausage to the bread and wine.




Second Runner-Up: Konzelmann Estate Winery
2007 Sparkling Riesling Methode Cuvee Close paired with Salmon-Zucchini Twist crowned with 'Bleu Turtle' Salsa and Chive Cream Cheese dollop on Artisan Corn Bread

This was a very logical pairing - smoked salmon with a light Sparkling Riesling. I suppose the long title is a bit ironic, giving the simplicity of the pairing. The Riesling added a hint of freshness to the salmon-zucchini twist, which was served on top of a mini corn bread muffin. My only complaint was that the corn bread was a bit on the drier side, but the bubbly Riesling made up for it!





Third Runner-Up: Coyote's Run
2008 Unoaked Chardonnay paired with Sweet Roasted Pepper and Lobster Ragu

The chardonnay was crisp and clean, and the lobster ragu extremely rich and flavorful. The ragu was prepared by Stone Road Grille, an excellent local restaurant that serves a to-die-for charcuterie plate. Although the ragu was heavy on the salt, the chardonnay brought a delicate balance to the palate. It's also interesting to note that in some cases, white wine can actually go very well with beef!





On Downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake...
In addition to the wineries, there are also several gourmet food shops in the downtown NOTL area that have been around for quite some time.

Greaves makes delicious jams out of all sorts of fruits (20+ different kinds!), and the store is so cutely decorated with rows and rows of bottles big and small.

Cheese Creations offered some great stinky and non-stinky cheeses. We tried the Eight Year Old Cheddar from Ripley, ON, and it was oh-so-good, especially after a few wine tastings.

Unfortunately our stomachs were too full for ice cream, so we can't say whether Cows really lives up to this big claim?! If it does, then we'll probably have to head back there in the summertime.


On Accommodations...
For our first night, we stayed at Charles Inn, which is an adorable little establishment that has a rich heritage in NOTL. Coincidentally (or not!), it is also home to one of the best restaurants in NOTL, and of course we had to try it out. Below is the Pan Seared Quebec Foie Gras on a Caramelized Pear Tart and drizzled with Balsamic Honey Syrup. It was absolutely an gluttonous indulgence, but I guess that is what Thanksgiving is all about, right?

I know Creme Brulee isn't new to any dessert fiends, but I must compliment the chef for his wonderfully creamy and rich, but not overly sweet custard. Mmmm.

For our second night, we opted for a more simple experience at Britaly, the top-rated bed and breakfast in NOTL. We were greeted by the adorable hosts, Aldo and Graham, who concocted this amazing breakfast dish below. I was so intrigued by the presentation of the dish, and I don't even know whether it has a name, but basically the top part is an egg-white meringue that lays on raisin french toast and served with caramelized apples and bananas. What more could one ask for?

So after 2 and a half days of eating and drinking in Niagara-on-the-Lake, we decided to fast for a week after we got back home to New York. That isn't working too well, and I'm already missing the great food and wine in NOTL. I can't wait to head back there in the summertime, when all the vineyards will be lush and green, but until then, New York has plenty of good food to entertain me.

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

Jess

Pates et Traditions

In light of the newly opened La Crepe Parisienne in Soho (supposedly with many more to come), crepes are slowly making their way back into the limelight. La Crepe Parisienne is a trendy, warm neighborhood joint, but it really is closer to being a takeout place (crepes are served in paper packets rather than plates). For those looking for a more wholesome, sit-down crepe meal, hop onto the L train to Bedford, walk a few blocks south, and head towards Pates et Traditions.

Restaurant: Pates et Traditions
Rating: ♔♔

Pates et Traditions is an uber cute, affordable little crepe place aiming to give you a taste of France. It's run by a French family, whose aesthetic tastes have translated into a cozy, friendly ambiance that couples can't resist. Note below, the little French girl in the highchair. Doesn't she fit right into the theme of the place? C'est charmant!

Our first crepe: Mussels in a Curry Sauce. I'm not a fan of mussels, but they were very fresh, and the light curry sauce was actually quite flavorful. They served it in a whole wheat crepe, which can be a bit dry at times, but not here!

The menu at Pates et Traditions consists mostly of crepes (20+ different flavors), but they've got some delectable pastas as well. Following the waiter's suggestion, we ordered the Mustard Chicken Penne, which was one of my favorites! Penne, cooked al dente, on a bed of creamy mustard sauce with generous dashes of white wine. It totally inspired me to add mustard to my pasta sauces. Yum!

Now onto the dessert crepes! Our second crepe: Belle-Helene. Unfortunately, this one did not score very many points for us. Traditional Belle-Helene desserts usually offer juicy, poached pears, but here it was served with canned pears, whose tartness did not go well with the crepe.

Our third crepe: Bananas Foster. Sounds just like the name. Bananas cooked in caramelized sugar and rum. It's always fascinating to watch the fire work its magic, but be careful not to ask them for too much rum. Although it makes the burning effect last longer, it can really eat up the crepe as well.

Our fourth crepe: Fresh Berries with Cream. Dum dum dum. This was indeed, the fairest of them all. We all know how great berries taste with fresh whipped cream, and the sweet berry compote sauce really made the crepe "berry" delicious!

There might be a a few inconsistencies here and there at this charming little French creperie, but Pates et Traditions is a hidden gem that could become the new playground for crepe lovers.

Pates et Traditions
52 Havemeyer St (between 6th and 7th)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(646) 409-4019

Alice's Tea Cup

If Alice had a private tea house in Wonderland, this would be it. With three "chapters" located in the city, Alice's Tea Cup is the perfect play-land for those looking for dreamy, wonder-filled scones and a calm cup of tea. This adorable establishment has wooed the Upper West Siders and East Siders alike, with its delectable selection of pastries and teas.

Restaurant: Alice's Tea Cup
Rating: ♔♔♔

The ambiance at Alice's Tea Cup can only be described as enchanting. Scenes from Alice in Wonderland are artfully painted on the walls, and the ceilings are graced with beautifully lit chandeliers. Birthday parties here are a tradition, and Sunday brunches are always ensued by long lines of eager patrons.

This is the view of the backroom on the second floor. Yup, those are indeed fairy wings on the ceiling!

This is the signature of Alice's Tea Cup - freshly baked scones with a variety of different flavors of the day, ham & cheese and mixed berry being my favorites. The scones are served with a side of fresh cream and berry preserves. The combination of the two is absolutely delicious! Very reasonably priced as well - two scones with a pot of tea for $10.

This is another favorite, the Croque Monsieur, with hearty layers of black forest ham and gruyere sandwiched between semolina slices with golden raisins and fennel. The raisins add a wonderful sweetness to the ham and gruyere, and the Croque comes with a side of greens or crunchy fries.

Dum dum dum. Who would've thought that the burger at Alice's Tea Cup would be such a big winner? The garnishes are the secret. Lapsang and rooibos tea infused sauteed onions and mushrooms. Mmm, the meat is so tender, and the onions and mushrooms taste of light, lapsang tea. This, clearly, is a must-order for burger lovers.

Alice's Tea Cup may be a little overwhelming for the serious patron, but it certainly does bring out the child in us, and sometimes, that can be a very nice thing.


Alice's Tea Cup
(3 chapter locations)
http://www.alicesteacup.com/

Moto

Welcome to the circa 1938 world of Moto, a hidden treasure off the Hewes St. stop on the J/M/Z. It's all about the ambiance here. The wild bohemian feel runs along the rusted copper doors to the extension collection of vintage decorations inside this charming little place.

Restaurant: Moto
Rating: ♔♔


I had to throw in this picture below. Note the name of the restaurant written in chalk on the rusted door. I just love the angle from which the shot was taken.

This is the 'moto' - namesake, hanging above the charming joint.

Did I mention the marvelous architecture? The shape of the restaurant space is actually triangular! The red exit sign is a burst of innovation compared to the awful conventional signs, and the clock is another favorite. Normally they have a lady and band playing music on the weekends.

Hear this. German Mac 'n Cheese? A delightful combination, the Aepler Macronnen consists of mac 'n cheese with sauteed onions (almost like sauerkrat) and apple sauce. I was somewhat skeptical at first, but the light sweetness of the apple sauce fared well against the soft and creamy macaroni. It's a bit much for one to handle, but you could always order it for two.

The fresh steamed artichoke was cooked to a soft and tender composition and served with a delicious aioli. Simplicity at its best.

For dessert, the waitress recommended her favorite dessert in the world - the warm date cake served in toffee sauce and fresh cream. Alert: intense sweetness in action. The toffee sauce was decadent (reminded me of the maple butter from Clinton St. Bakery), and oh so sweet. Thankfully, the cream was light and fluffy, which helped to balance the heaviness of the chunky cake. The refreshing mint leaf garnish did wonders to cleansing our palates, as we prepared to take another bite of the candy-coated fortress.


Moto is the perfect date spot -- classy, old school, and filled with cultured hipsters.

Moto
394 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 599-6895

Food, Inc: What Did You Eat Today?

"You'll never look at food the same way again." -Food, Inc.



Two weeks ago, I finally watched this much-anticipated documentary, which delves into the changing landscape of our food industry in the recent decade. The movie isn't for the faint of heart, but I really think that everyone should know (whether or not they want to) where their food is coming from. Directed by Emmy Award-winning filmmaker Robert Kenner, Food, Inc. sets off on a mission to unveil the secrets behind mighty agribusiness corporations and their Herculean control over the food industry. The pace of the film is quick, as scenes jump from one issue to another, but essentially, the different topics are all deeply interconnected.

Some quick and dirty facts from Food, Inc.:

Nowadays, chicks are injected with gross amounts of hormones so that they can grow to be more than twice the size in same amount of time.

The majority of the meat in the entire world is dominated by four large conglomerates: Cargill, Smithfield, IBP, and Tyson. (I know, I didn't believe it but I looked it up and it's true.)

Corn (hint: high fructose syrup) has become the basis of everything we eat. The industry has been heavily subsidized by the government for years, with the purpose of keeping food prices down. This is partly responsible for our nation's obesity epidemic.

The lack of FDA regulation has empowered corporate giants to maintain poor health conditions in slaughterhouses and cow/pig/chicken farms (animals standing in their manure all day long). Of course, this has led to an outbreak of diseases such as E. Coli, killing thousands of people.

This really is an issue that is so near and dear to our health, and there are things that can be done.

To see where it's playing near you, click here.

Post-Addendum:

I saw Food, Inc. at The Quad Cinemas (cute little place on 13th St), and after we got out of the theater, we were starving but neither of us was willing to suggest a place to eat. That's when we saw GustOrganics, New York's first and only USDA certified organic restaurant. How convenient! Everything there was organic, from the food to the drinks. The pizza is a little bland, but the fruit juices are delicious (albeit pricey, at $6.50 a glass)



This was my favorite: Spinach Salad with Strawberries, Pears, and Pine Nuts in a Lemon Olive Oil Dressing.

GustOrganics Restaurant & Bar
519 Avenue of the Americas (14th St)
New York, NY 10011
(212) 242-5800

Special: Slice of Arubian Gourmet

"Aruba, Jamaica, ooh I wanna take you to Bermuda, Bahama, come on pretty mama..."
-Kokomo, Beach Boys

After spending a week in Aruba, I am in complete withdrawal. I dream about the fresh catch-of-the-day plates served with a ton of sides like fried plantains, pancakes (yes, delish!), steamed veggies, and rice pilaf. There are several fish that are native to the beautiful island - red snapper, grouper, mahi-mahi, and barracuda. We tried them all, and my favorite is the grouper, the most flavorful and tender of them all.

Pan-Seared Red Snapper in Creole Sauce, The Flying Fishbone

Beautiful presentation and wonderful tangy kick to the tomato-based Creole sauce. Served on a bed of delicious Funchi (fried cornmeal pancake). Yum!

Catch of the Day: Pan-Seared Grouper, The Old Cunucu House

Fantastic crispy texture and buttery garlic sauce. Chomp chomp.

Grilled Barracuda in a Garlic Butter Sauce with Mashed Potatoes, The Flying Fishbone

Slightly chunkier fish with a tougher texture close to tuna and salmon. We saw them while snorkeling in the waters!

Fish Cakes, Pinchos Bar & Grill

Wonderful combination of different fishes, including salmon, wahoo, and red snapper. The atmosphere here is gorgeous and perfect for the ultra-romantic.

Deep-Fried Fish Eggs, The Old Fisherman

Not for the faint-hearted, but very fresh and filled with roe! Note the abundance of sides: french fries, rice, coleslaw, fried plantains, and pancakes.

Shrimp Coco and Keshi Seafood, Gasparito

Right: Seafood baked with Dutch cheese, or keshi (cheese in Papiamento). Left: Shrimps are not local to Aruba, so I might advise you to steer away from them.

Before: Red Snapper, Local fish market


After: Red Snapper with Papaya Sauce, Gabriel Ayala of Club Arias

This is the signature dish by Gabriel Ayala (Executive Chef, Club Arias). Reserve a private dinner with him, and I promise your significant other will adore you more. For those planning a trip to Aruba, Club Arias (located in Savaneta) is a fabulous place to stay. Expect good food, great people, and exceptional service.

Apple-Rum-Raisin Dutch Pancake, Linda's Pancakes and Pizza

What's a meal without dessert? Since I cannot live without it, I had to throw in this gorgeous Dutch pancake. Thin, soft, buttery, crispy, and simply delightful.

Oh Aruba, my dushi! (I know it sounds like douche-y, but it actually means sweetheart in Papiamento)

Dell'anima

I have been meaning to try out this place for a while, back when I found out that one of the co-owners was Joe Campanale, former sommelier at Babbo and owner of L'Artusi, his newer Italian joint. We arrived around 7 and got seated at the bar/open kitchen fairly quickly. The seats were great since the chefs were literally cooking right in front of us, but we soon found the the heat rising from the grills and stoves a bit overwhelming on a hot summer's day. The food, nevertheless, was very hearty and muy delicioso.

Restaurant: Dell'anima
Rating: ♔♔♔

To start off, we had the Bruschette with five different dippings: Rapini Pesto, Lily Confit, Avocado, Ricotta, and Octopus. My favorites were the Lily Confit, which was on the sweeter side (with lily preserves!) and the Ricotta, which was rubbed in pinches of sea salt. The various combinations of flavors complemented each other nicely, and we were glad we succumbed to our gluttony and ordered all five.

This next appetizer, the Grilled Quail with mint, red onion, currants, and chilies was phenomenal. The crispy skin slid off nicely as we dug into the succulent meat. The quail was clearly grilled at the perfect temperature, and the flavor of the currants and chilies added several bright notes to the dish.

Compared to the quail, the Heirloom Tomato Salad (with shaved fennel, summer beans, shallots, and pesto) was much more light and refreshing. The feature of the dish, the heirloom tomato, had a likeable sweetness that differentiated it from other tomatoes, and I enjoyed popping the juices in my mouth. (I know, I should stop that.)

The Linguine below was by far my favorite dish. First of all, the linguine is half made with squid pink. One side of the pasta is black, while the other remains the normal cream color. Not only is the dish visually appealing, but the flavors twist and turn in unexpected ways. The sauce is made with chilies, mint, cherry tomatoes, sea urchin, and colatura di alici, a type of Italian sauce made from anchovies. I was surprised by the level of complexity in the dish, but the spicy chilies were relieved by the cool mint and cherry tomatoes, and I smiled blissfully as I gobbled it up. This, in my opinion, was the must-get dish of the night.

We also tried the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese, which I initially considered to be a bit of a boring choice, until I was quickly proven wrong. Unlike typical bolognese sauce, this one did not have a tomato base. Instead, it used meat juice. When I took a bite of the tagliatelle, all I could hear was the dish was screaming, "Meat! Meat!" The sauce tasted as if the meat had been braised for hours, giving it a buttery richness. I think this dish is best shared, unless of course, if you consider yourself a true carnivore.

After stuffing that last piece of tagliatelle into our mouths, we were convinced that sorbet would save us from the sweltering heat. And so we ordered two flavors - basil lemon and blackberry. Unfortunately, this was somewhat the downer of the night. Both flavors leaned too much to the sweeter side, and I could barely taste the basil in the basil lemon sorbet. The blackberry, while flavorful, tasted more like ice cream than sorbet. I am guessing that the other desserts may have been better choices, but we looked for the coldest one and dove right in.


I will soon be off to Aruba, so expect the next entry to be a special on a romantic Aruban restaurant by the beach. Happy eating and have a great Labor Day Weekend!

Dell'anima
38 8th Ave
NY, NY 10014
(212) 366-6633
www.dellanima.com

Aki on West 4th

Few would doubt the ubiquity of Japanese joints in the city, but how many have a Caribbean twist to them? At Aki, this unique pairing comes together magically. For nearly a decade, Shigeaki Nakanishi, formerly the private chef for the Japanese ambassador to Jamaica, has wooed his patrons with his alluring concoctions. The space is small and intimate, fitting no more than five tables and a few seats at the bar. The menu offers several affordable prix-fixe options that include a combination of beautifully plated appetizers, the highlight of this restaurant, and sushi entrees.

Restaurant: Aki on West 4th
Rating: ♔♔♔♔

We start off with the Tuna Mille-Feuille, with pieces of fresh tuna sandwiched between slices of fuji apple and creamy avocado. Topped with generous portions of crunchy tobiko, or flying fish roe, the dish rests on a bed of seaweed salad tossed in an balsamic apple vinaigrette. This combination of the crispness from the apple and the creaminess from the tuna and avocado was phenomenal.

This next appetizer, the Uni-Coco, is another classic favorite of countless patrons. Fresh chunks of uni and scallop are mixed in with whipped coconut milk and topped with wasabi-infused tobiko. From head to toe, this dish was "screaming" creativity, and you can't help but wonder about the imaginative depths of Chef Nakanishi.

Named after Montauk for its wealth of seafood, this "East-meets-West" Montauk Salad consists of sashimi slices with pine nuts, avocado, wasabi tobiko on a bed of greens tossed in an olive oil vinaigrette. Yummy!

Although the sushi and sashimi entrees merit less praise than the trophy appetizers, there are some interesting fusion rolls that catch the eye. The Banana Boat Roll (pictured below), which consists of fried banana and spicy tuna is delightful, as is the Caribbean roll, with mango, avocado, and yellowtail.

As wise foodies say, there is always room for dessert. To finish it off, we had the Strawberry Pudding and Green Tea Tiramisu, both of which were very refreshing and not too sweet. The Strawberry Pudding has a soft, creamy texture and is topped with fresh strawberries and a sweet berry reduction.

Aki's beautiful creations and warm atmosphere have naturally attracted quite a large fan club over the years, so be sure to make a reservation for your special date!

Aki on West 4th
181 W 4th St (bet. 6th and 7th Aves)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 989-5440