Inakaya

The Times Square eateries are welcoming a new member to the club – Inakaya, the robatakaya from Roppongi. Robata is a traditional, rustic form of grilling from Japan, whereby the individual skewers are grilled on a charcoal-fired hearth filled with sand. For those that are intrigued, you can read more about robata here.

Restaurant: Inakaya
Rating: ♔

The centerpiece of the restaurant is the long, rectangular open counter featuring chefs dressed in traditional Japanese costumes and colorful head robes. Though the tables to the side are better suited for larger groups, I would recommend sitting at the bar for the full Inakaya experience.

We ordered a variety of different dishes, starting with the Ika-Su, squid marinated in a vinaigrette dressing, and a sashimi plate consisting of tuna, yellowtail, medium fatty tuna, fluke and squid. The flavors were refreshing, but that seemed to be our only takeaway from the dishes.

Then the fish arrived. Black Rockfish grilled in salt, robata style and times two for the table. The presentation is quite eye-catching – the fish is erect, its body twisted as if it were alive, still swimming. The fish was flavorful, but surprisingly, the second one was much more tender. Upon our comment, the waiter explained that different chefs have different styles of cooking. Still, I am personally of the belief that consistency is the trademark of success for any restaurant chain.

The Yellowtail Fillet, on the other hand, was much less spectacular. Nevertheless, our sides, Grilled Eringi Mushroom and Grilled Potato served with fresh butter were delish!

As we happy awaited the other dishes, the waiter came by, inviting us to participate in the traditional Japanese chant praying for health and wellness. Clap. Clap. Clap-clap-clap. “Remember, 3 times,” he says. The chefs form a line behind the bar, and begin their chant. The customers join in, and suddenly, the room is instilled with a warm festivity.

At last, the Wagyu Beef and Tsukune Ground Chicken skewers arrive. The Wagyu, superior to the Tsukune, melted like butter, and the Kaku Ni, Berkshire pork belly simmered in broth was unbelievably juicy, leaving remnants of the aroma lingering in my mouth.

On our way out, we were asked to pound some fresh mochi in a large mortar. (Mochi is a Japanese dessert made of glutinous rice, often served with kinako powder).

The food is fresh and the experience engaging, but when the chants and ceremonies end, and the cheery waiter sets the bill on your table (followed by a loud “Arigato-gozaimasu”) you can’t help but wonder, were the festivities tonight worth the hefty price tag?


Inakaya
231 W 40th St
New York, NY 10018
(212) 354-2195