Dell'anima

I have been meaning to try out this place for a while, back when I found out that one of the co-owners was Joe Campanale, former sommelier at Babbo and owner of L'Artusi, his newer Italian joint. We arrived around 7 and got seated at the bar/open kitchen fairly quickly. The seats were great since the chefs were literally cooking right in front of us, but we soon found the the heat rising from the grills and stoves a bit overwhelming on a hot summer's day. The food, nevertheless, was very hearty and muy delicioso.

Restaurant: Dell'anima
Rating: ♔♔♔

To start off, we had the Bruschette with five different dippings: Rapini Pesto, Lily Confit, Avocado, Ricotta, and Octopus. My favorites were the Lily Confit, which was on the sweeter side (with lily preserves!) and the Ricotta, which was rubbed in pinches of sea salt. The various combinations of flavors complemented each other nicely, and we were glad we succumbed to our gluttony and ordered all five.

This next appetizer, the Grilled Quail with mint, red onion, currants, and chilies was phenomenal. The crispy skin slid off nicely as we dug into the succulent meat. The quail was clearly grilled at the perfect temperature, and the flavor of the currants and chilies added several bright notes to the dish.

Compared to the quail, the Heirloom Tomato Salad (with shaved fennel, summer beans, shallots, and pesto) was much more light and refreshing. The feature of the dish, the heirloom tomato, had a likeable sweetness that differentiated it from other tomatoes, and I enjoyed popping the juices in my mouth. (I know, I should stop that.)

The Linguine below was by far my favorite dish. First of all, the linguine is half made with squid pink. One side of the pasta is black, while the other remains the normal cream color. Not only is the dish visually appealing, but the flavors twist and turn in unexpected ways. The sauce is made with chilies, mint, cherry tomatoes, sea urchin, and colatura di alici, a type of Italian sauce made from anchovies. I was surprised by the level of complexity in the dish, but the spicy chilies were relieved by the cool mint and cherry tomatoes, and I smiled blissfully as I gobbled it up. This, in my opinion, was the must-get dish of the night.

We also tried the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese, which I initially considered to be a bit of a boring choice, until I was quickly proven wrong. Unlike typical bolognese sauce, this one did not have a tomato base. Instead, it used meat juice. When I took a bite of the tagliatelle, all I could hear was the dish was screaming, "Meat! Meat!" The sauce tasted as if the meat had been braised for hours, giving it a buttery richness. I think this dish is best shared, unless of course, if you consider yourself a true carnivore.

After stuffing that last piece of tagliatelle into our mouths, we were convinced that sorbet would save us from the sweltering heat. And so we ordered two flavors - basil lemon and blackberry. Unfortunately, this was somewhat the downer of the night. Both flavors leaned too much to the sweeter side, and I could barely taste the basil in the basil lemon sorbet. The blackberry, while flavorful, tasted more like ice cream than sorbet. I am guessing that the other desserts may have been better choices, but we looked for the coldest one and dove right in.


I will soon be off to Aruba, so expect the next entry to be a special on a romantic Aruban restaurant by the beach. Happy eating and have a great Labor Day Weekend!

Dell'anima
38 8th Ave
NY, NY 10014
(212) 366-6633
www.dellanima.com

Aki on West 4th

Few would doubt the ubiquity of Japanese joints in the city, but how many have a Caribbean twist to them? At Aki, this unique pairing comes together magically. For nearly a decade, Shigeaki Nakanishi, formerly the private chef for the Japanese ambassador to Jamaica, has wooed his patrons with his alluring concoctions. The space is small and intimate, fitting no more than five tables and a few seats at the bar. The menu offers several affordable prix-fixe options that include a combination of beautifully plated appetizers, the highlight of this restaurant, and sushi entrees.

Restaurant: Aki on West 4th
Rating: ♔♔♔♔

We start off with the Tuna Mille-Feuille, with pieces of fresh tuna sandwiched between slices of fuji apple and creamy avocado. Topped with generous portions of crunchy tobiko, or flying fish roe, the dish rests on a bed of seaweed salad tossed in an balsamic apple vinaigrette. This combination of the crispness from the apple and the creaminess from the tuna and avocado was phenomenal.

This next appetizer, the Uni-Coco, is another classic favorite of countless patrons. Fresh chunks of uni and scallop are mixed in with whipped coconut milk and topped with wasabi-infused tobiko. From head to toe, this dish was "screaming" creativity, and you can't help but wonder about the imaginative depths of Chef Nakanishi.

Named after Montauk for its wealth of seafood, this "East-meets-West" Montauk Salad consists of sashimi slices with pine nuts, avocado, wasabi tobiko on a bed of greens tossed in an olive oil vinaigrette. Yummy!

Although the sushi and sashimi entrees merit less praise than the trophy appetizers, there are some interesting fusion rolls that catch the eye. The Banana Boat Roll (pictured below), which consists of fried banana and spicy tuna is delightful, as is the Caribbean roll, with mango, avocado, and yellowtail.

As wise foodies say, there is always room for dessert. To finish it off, we had the Strawberry Pudding and Green Tea Tiramisu, both of which were very refreshing and not too sweet. The Strawberry Pudding has a soft, creamy texture and is topped with fresh strawberries and a sweet berry reduction.

Aki's beautiful creations and warm atmosphere have naturally attracted quite a large fan club over the years, so be sure to make a reservation for your special date!

Aki on West 4th
181 W 4th St (bet. 6th and 7th Aves)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 989-5440

Cho Dan Gol

Many apologies for the summer hiatus. I'll shamelessly blame it on the heat, which sadly, is probably creeping away, preparing for the advent of autumn and winter. Thinking back to the cold winter days, I often envision myself gulping down a bowl of hot Korean tofu stew from Cho Dan Gol, a relatively unknown gem tucked away from the bustling streets of Korea Town.

Restaurant: Cho Dan Gol
Rating: ♔♔♔

One thing I love about Korean restaurants is the unlimited small plates, panchan, which encompass all sorts of foods -- grilled fish, fresh kimchee, fried zucchini pancakes, just to name a few. Although the panchan here does not include my favorite steamed egg, the connoisseurs would agree that the kimchee is far superior, with just the right marinade of soy sauce, garlic, brown sugar, sesame oil, and hot chili peppers.

Tofu, the highlight of the menu, is made fresh daily on the premises, and featured in a variety of specialty dishes. We start off with the traditional Seafood Tofu Soup, whose bright redness gives it a deceivingly spicy facade. The piquant broth is made from kimchee, kochukaru (red pepper powder), seafood, saewoojeot (salted shrimp), sesame oil, and various ingredients depending on the chef. The tanginess of the stew balances the tofu, which has a crumbly texture that differentiates itself from the usual processed tofu in Asian supermarkets. The stew is served with sticky purple rice, which not only tastes delicious but is also rich in anthocyanin antioxidants, which have been proven to help combat free radicals in the body. If you are not a fan of seafood, the Kimchee (with Pork) or the Vegetable are also excellent choices.

The Herbal Pork Belly, Bo Ssam, is one of the signature dishes at Cho Dan Gol. Fresh slices of marble pork belly marinated in traditional herbs, giving it a slight medicinal taste, are arranged neatly in an iron pot and kept warm by a portable stove.

The ornamentation then begins. The pork belly slices are placed on thin, round translucent sheets of daikon radish and garnished with shrimp sauce (that is also the acting agent in fermenting kimchee), soybean and chili pepper paste, shredded sesame leaves, and raw onions. Then simply fold it in half and voila! The succulent pork fat melts quickly in the mouth and is perfectly balanced by the raw onions and the crisp, refreshing slices of daikon.

We finish up our meal with a cup of hot ginger lemon tea complimentary of the restaurant, preparing us for entering into the cold again. All in all, a deeply satisfying meal, and something to look forward to as summer slowly winds down.

Cho Dan Gol
55 W. 35 St
NY, NY 10001
(212) 695-8222